Friday, March 27, 2009
Florence
The next day started with our complementary hot breakfast which was very good considering the price. After breakfast we waited in the lobby for our 10 am free walking tour. The hostel does two different free walking tours every other day. Today’s was the more ‘off the beaten path’ tour guided by a blonde Italian woman. Yes I said blonde. You could tell she had an attitude and it was a great source of entertainment throughout our two hour excursion. This was the first walking tour we had done while in Europe and it was very worth our time because the things the guides tell you are things the average person might miss when just walking around. We learned all about the Medici family, the richest family in Florence and got to tour one of their palaces. All and all a very enjoyable tour. After we walked to the Michael Angelo plaza which overlooked the city and on this particular sunny day provided some amazing photos and the warmth on your body was also a welcome experience.
We walked down from the Michael Angelo plaza which was situated in a beautiful park on the south east side of the city, to the downtown area to look for food. I was getting hungry so time was of the essence as I didn’t want to get too irritable. So we picked a place that was self service and I ordered a pizza and Wang a small sandwich. They messed up Wang’s order and only charged him slightly over two euro and mine which was awful about 6.50 euro. You can’t always pick a great place. After lunch we headed out to find the Galleria Accademia where the statue of David is on display. It was an unbelievably large, perfect statue created out of marble by Michael Angelo. It was a pleasantly small museum so we didn’t spend too much time there and headed to the Duomo, the third largest Cathedral in Europe (we had already seen number one and will see number two before returning to the states). Once we walked into the Duomo with free admission to the main church and we very impressed with is size and decoration. Wang wanted to climb to the top of the dome and after my little bout of claustrophobia at the Vatican I decided to wait at the bottom for him. He snapped some shots and climbed the stairs back down so we could go buy some things at the leather market.
When we got to the leather market I knew exactly what I was going to buy. The first day we wandered into this guys shop that was full of beautiful leather goods from purses, wallets, messenger bags, etc. I was in the market for a leather messenger bag I can take to work. He had the perfect one that I couldn’t leave Florence without. I we talked price and I got him to come down to something I felt was reasonable and a price that I also knew was about half what you would pay in the states for something of similar quality but definitely mass produced. I was thrilled to not only have purchased a bag I had been wanting for months, but that it was from Florence and I had met the man who had made it for me. Wang was in the market for a portfolio he could use at work but soon fell in love with a leather travel tie holder. Wang purchased the tie holder from the same guy and completely excited about our buys we went out to find Wang two Italian silk ties to fill his new leather travel pack. The ties were very inexpensive buy any American standards so Wang bought three and I bought one too. With a few new items we were all shopped out, dropped off our stuff in our room and tried to figure out where to eat for dinner. Wang wanted a traditional Florentine steak so with the help of wikitravel (an amazing free travel guide online) we found a great place with low prices Florentine steak. It was called Trattoria Le Mossacce. It was a tiny little hole in the wall place and we were seated at a four person table with two people already sitting there. They pack people in and there is no seat unused. It was very cosy and we were seated right next to the open kitchen and were able to watch the chefs cook the food. The meal was delicious and after a great day and a great meal we decided to grab a drink before heading back. We stopped at an Irish pub and had a beer. The crowd was sparce and the music was terrible so we went back and hit the sack.
Our last day started again with free breakfast and a free walking tour starting again at 10 am. This time our tour guide was a much more typical Italian woman. I just loved her. She laughed constantly, talked very quickly, was extremely nice but I couldn’t help but notice her terrible cough and yet she still sucked down a few smokes… a true European. All guides carry some type of item to help their group keep an eye on their guide and hers was a large stuffed flower. In retrospect her locating beacon embodied her personality quite well. She suggested looking at another local market for leather so Wang could maybe find that perfect portfolio he was holding out for. We quickly looked through the goods and didn’t find anything better than what we had already seen.
Our next city was to be Venice and I wanted to stop at the Ferrari museum between these two places in Italy. Well as it turns out, there is no train to Maranello, Italy to see the museum so we racked our brains for a way to get there. Well… why not rent a car!?!? So after the leather market we went to the area of town with multiple car rental places and found the cheapest place and booked a little Italian Fiat for the next morning to drive to Maranello and then leave in Venice.
We wanted a fast lunch because we still wanted to fit in Pisa for the afternoon. Lunch was at a kebab place and was delicious. We then walked to the very near train station to book a ticket to the one hour away location of Pisa to see the leaning tower. There isnt a whole hell of a lot in the little town of Pisa, Italy. Some shopping between the train station and the leaning tower and that’s about it. We spent about an hour in Pisa and headed back to Florence on the train.
Once back in Florence we were hungry and were craving Cellinis again so we went back to visit our girlfriend. Not to disappoint, the meal was outstanding and we went back to the hostel to get a good night sleep for our next day.
That next morning we headed out to an internet café to print off directions to the Ferrari Museum and onto Venice. After directions were printed Wang and I split up so he could find postcards and so I could pick up our little car. Wang’s task proved to be slightly less taxing. It took me only 7 minutes to walk to the car rental pick-up and over 25 to drive back. This was due to an excessive amount of one way roads, excessive construction with Italian signs directing traffic and probably also because I had never driven in Italy. I finally met Wang at the hostel, we loaded up the car and headed off onto the A-1.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Rome
Following breakfast on our first full day, we set out to the famed Colosseum. Our lucky weather streak came to an end, as we had overcast skies and intermittent rain showers. Could have been much worse though, and the rain never lasted long. But about the Colosseum… it is an amazing structure. The amphitheater is enormous, and it was quite the experience walking through the upper levels, trying to imagine what it was like when it was full, and gladiators were duking it out in the middle. While much of the building has crumbled and been worn by age and weather, it made a lasting impression in my mind. Being in Italy, we quickly came to a consensus that pizza would be our food of choice for lunch. It doesn’t take very long to find a pizza joint in these parts. While Naber decided on a vegetarian pizza, I settled for prosciutto, better known to Americans as ham. The pizza was rather good, as expected, and we moved on to walk around Palatine and the Roman Forums. Both areas are remnants of Ancient Rome, where only parts of walls, columns and temples remain. It’s a beautiful sight. Unfortunately, I’m no history expert, so I can’t give you the intimate details of the ruins and their significance. However, the details are not needed to appreciate the beauty and atmosphere of the place.
After our stroll through the Forums, we walked past the Campidoglio, a large museum with a staircase leading up to it designed by Michelangelo. From there, we walked towards the Trastevere district, considered the “heart of Rome.” We first stopped by to see Saint Mary’s in the Cosmedin, which houses the Mouth of Truth. We stopped for some gelato while crossing the Tiber River. Gelato, or better known to most of you as ice cream, is nothing short of amazing in Italy. We walked the streets of Trastevere, stopping by Saint Mary’s of Trastevere, the oldest basilica in Rome. This district really lives up to its label, as the streets are filled with more locals rather than tourists, and there’s a distinct old city feel. We walked up part of Janiculum Hill, which has various monuments and fountains scattered throughout, as well as panoramic city views. However, the low clouds and rainy day didn’t make the views as notable as they should be.
Following the Trastevere district, we crossed back over the river and into the Aventine district. Saint Alessio Church is located on a hill in this district, but there was no obvious way up from the street we were on, so we just moved on. We walked down to the Pyramid, which holds the tomb of Caius Cestius (really don’t know who that is…) and also saw Porta San Paolo, one of the ancient gates into Rome. As some rain started coming down again, and we had wound up in the southernmost area of Rome, we caught a metro back up to the hostel for dinner at the restaurant next door. While Nick enjoyed the house special seafood pasta dish, I settled for a simple penne with a creamy pesto sauce, with the traditional Italian tiramisu as dessert.
On our second day in Rome, we headed for the Vatican. St. Peter’s Square is the largest square in Rome, and it’s also definitely more of a circle. Someone missed out on that memo, or maybe that’s me. Anyways, after standing in a line that almost went straight out the square, we made our way into the famed St. Peter’s basilica. It is massive on the inside, and impressive, I should add. Taking our obligatory pictures, we moved on to make the climb up the cupola (the dome). The climb involves 500+ stairs, the last half being very narrow and steep. While Nick opted out of the last half of the climb, I should mention it’s really not meant for the claustrophobic. As you reach the dome, the walls slant towards the middle and the passageway is about the width of your shoulders, you kind of have to lean towards the center yourself and shuffle your way up the dome. The last couple stories involve the smallest and very steep spiral stairs case. The middle of the stair case is literally a rope they drop from the top so you can hold up and try to semi-climb your way up to the top. The views are spectacular though, and you can really see that St. Peter’s Square is more of a circle.
After yet another pizza lunch, we walked along the Vatican Wall to go see the Sistine Chapel. What we didn’t know, is that you have to pay for all the Vatican Museums to see the Sistine Chapel, as it was designed in a manner that you had to walk through building after building to actually reach the chapel. It’s kind of like how 90% of the people who go to the Louvre pretty much just to go see the Mona Lisa. At least the Sistine Chapel is a whole room as opposed to a small square picture. Since there’s pretty much only one way to get to the Sistine Chapel, you do end up seeing quite a bit of the other museums, full of sculptures and paintings and beautiful artsy items.
We spent the rest of the afternoon making our way back across the city to our hostel, walking by St. Angelo’s Castle and the Navona Plazza. Unfortunately, the middle of it was under construction, ruining the effect of the huge plaza and its fountains. The middle fountain, Bernini’s masterpiece called the Fountain of Four Rivers is a beautiful work of art and was well worth the walk-through. After making it back to the hostel with sore feet and tired legs, we went to Mamma Angela’s again for dinner. On the subject of Italian food, the rest of the world could stand to take a leaf out of the Italians’ book in the restaurant service industry. Smiling, pleasant, helpful with the menus, not to mention their ability to open a bottle of wine in less than 5 seconds. It’s rather amazing, actually. And this is all before talking about the actual food. Words can’t really describe how much I love the food in Italy so far, and I don’t even eat Italian food all that often back at home (and we’ll just not count pizza at school). In our stay in Rome, never did we have a less than highly satisfactory meal, no matter how simple, cheap or quick it was. A few drinks back at the hostel bar and we called it a day.
The last day was taken at more of a leisurely pace. We set out on foot, per usual, first walking by the Quirinal Palace. The Alpha Romeo police car parked in the plaza was probably the most exciting thing here, granted we didn’t go in. Our next stop was the Trevi Fountain, the famous “Virgin Water” of Rome. It’s fabled that anyone who drinks from it or throws a coin in is destined to return to Rome. So it looks like I’ll be back sometime. We made our way over to the Pantheon, another very cool sight in Rome. Moving on, we walked through Chigi Plaza and the Marcus Aurelius monument, and turned up Via del Corso, more or less the shopping area of Rome. We walked up through Piazza del Popolo, yet another large square (and it really is close to a square this time), then up through a park. We cut through the park and ended up at the top of the Spanish Steps, or Piazza de Spagna. Taking our obligatory pictures at each location, we set out for place mentioned in the all-knowing Lonely Planet book for lunch. You should be able to guess what we had. Pizza, of course. Pizzeria Buffeto provided some of the best pizza I’ve had in a very long while. After the pizza, we crossed town and went down to the Lateran to see St. John’s basilica. Since this was pretty much the 30th church we saw in Rome, I don’t remember what made this one stand out other than it was big. However, the chapel across the plaza held the Scala Santa, the Holy Staircase. Jesus Christ Himself was rumored to have climbed these stairs, and visitors can only ascend these stairs on their knees now.
Rome is truly a great city to visit. It’s full of history, ruins, and architecture, not to forget religion. While it’s a tourist hotspot, parts of the city still retain an authentic feel. It’s a relatively small city with a lot to see. So far it’s been a great start to our stay in Italy. We head to Florence next, followed by Venice.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Geneva
The weather was ideal, sunny and 50. It was just like one of the first warm days after a long winter in the early spring in the Midwest. We decided to walk around the old part of the city first. We walked by the Norte-Dame, around the bay of Geneva to see the Jet d’eau. It is the tallest water fountain in the world and is quite spectacular. We then headed through the streets of old town past Saturday morning markets and some fantastic shopping. It was a very high end city with beautiful cars, stores, and restaurants. It was similar to a European Hong Kong at a slower pace (surprise surprise). Through old town we watched some locals playing checkers and chess with life sized pieces in the park as we walked down the Promenade de Bastions and up to the Cathedrale St Pierre. The city is definitely not full of tourist attractions but the scenery is beautiful. You could admire Lake Geneva all day with its crystal clear water and its backdrop of the snow capped Swiss Alps and Mont Blanc, the tallest peak in Europe. It was a necessity that we get out on the water so we took a tour boat around the lake in the afternoon which took us past some unbelievably beautiful homes on the water. Since we couldn’t both enjoy the luxury of purchasing a Swiss watch we decided to settle for some Swiss chocolate which we enjoyed on the boat. After the boat ride we took PT, which is free to anyone staying in a hotel, to the Red Cross Museum and the former United Nations World Headquarters. Both places were closed for the weekend so we didn’t get to go in. We went back to the city center and decided to walk around a grab some dinner. Food in Geneva is damn expensive and sitting down to any real meal cost at least 25 dollars so we settled on one of the many kebab places which was provides cheap food relative to other local options. After dinner we grabbed a Swiss beer at Les Brasseurs which brewed four different types of beer. It had been a long 36 hours and we wanted to get some rest in the most comfortable bed we had been in since the states. In the morning we grabbed a quick breakfast of café, orange juice, and two croissants. A very fitting breakfast as the main language spoken in Geneva is French.
We couldn’t have enjoyed our stay anymore and were very glad we put up with all the hassels and decided to go. Our train to Rome left at 11 am with a connection in Milan so we were on our way!
Barcelona
We met another one of our roommates the following morning over breakfast. Chris from Austin, Texas, is the most non-Texan-like Texan I have ever met. A mechanical engineer (I remember sort of being one for a bit), he decided that after two years working a job he didn’t enjoy, he would up and travel for a few months. He seemed like good company, so we would try to see if he wanted to grab drinks at some point during our stay in Barcelona.
The day kicked off with a stroll up La Rambla, a large pedestrian street through downtown. Think of a typical large street in a city, but the lanes of traffic are for people and the sidewalk is for cars, and you have La Rambla. Newsstands, vendors of paintings, trinkets, flowers, and all things touristy lined the street. Off La Rambla is the Boqueria Market, a lively market that sells fresh produce, fruit, fish and meat. It was almost like an Asian market, except it was clean, organized, the goods looked much more presentable, and it wasn’t overly crowded. So all in all, nothing like an Asian market. We each grabbed some freshly squeezed fruit juice, strawberry banana orange for me, and mango for Nick, and moved on. The next sighting was Placa Reial, the supposed lively and busy plaza. It’s supposed to be a happening nightlife area, but since it was the middle of the day, it was rather dead. We sort of wandered through the streets downtown, walking through parts of the Barri Gotic, then catching a glimpse of the water, strolling through Parc de la Cuitadella, and walking up to the Els Encants flea market. This was a true flea market. Piles of clothes were strewn over tables, or even the ground, with people rummaging through it. Other stalls sold old and used powertools and various electronics. Not spending much time in that market, we walked towards the Segrada Familia, the signature cathedral designed by Gaudi. The cathedral was quite a sight, the towers rising well over the rest of the city. The cathedral is under construction, and will be until 2020. Opting out of the expensive admission fee, we took our pictures and moved on.
We spent the next part of our day figuring out how to get to Geneva, as the supposed overnight train we were supposed to take wasn’t running the night we needed. At the train station’s information desk, a guy was able to give us an alternative route, consisting of 3 different trains, which seemed to be our only option (Barcelona to Narbonne, Narbonne to Toulouse, and Toulouse overnight to Geneva). As we booked our reservations, we found out they were not able to book our Toulouse to Geneva train, and we would just have to hope for the best when we got to Toulouse (which would be almost 11:30PM, when the ticketing office would be closed). Should be an adventure.
After figuring out of train situation, at least sort of, we headed back downtown for a more thorough exploration. The downtown atmosphere, to me, is what separates Barcelona from Madrid, aside from the obvious geographic difference of Barcelona being on the water. The streets of the downtown area are predominantly pedestrian; narrow with an old town feel. Small boutiques, cafes, restaurants and tapas bars line the neighborhood of alleyways, for lack of a better description. It’s almost maze-like, except it’s small enough that you would eventually walk into a major street, so you can’t get too lost. We started at the Santa Maria del Mar church in the Ribera section, and just meandered our way through the streets, doing some window shopping, eventually making it back to the Barri Gotic and seeing Catedral, a gothic cathedral also under construction, which denied us the beauty of the building.
Back at the hostel, Chris happened to be in the common room, and we invited him along for dinner. He had met this girl, Kelsie, during his travels in Grenada, and she was also in Barcelona at the same time, so she came along too. Kelsie is 18, from Alberta, Canada, and is traveling for 5 months around Europe on her own. I think many of you would agree that takes quite the sense of adventure and wanderlust. Per our hostel recommendation, we had dinner at a restaurant called El Boton Charro, where they had a menu del dia. I’m going to take a few sentences and describe menu del dia for those of you who don’t know what it is. Menu del dia, or menu of the day, is where you get a list of starters and main courses and you simply choose a dish from each list. It also includes bread, dessert, and a drink (which can be alcohol) for a set price. While we discovered menu del dia in Madrid, we fully exploited the joys of it in Barcelona, as it’s usually cheap, at least for the amount of food you get. In this particular instance, dinner was 9 euros per person, and that included a full bottle of wine for the table.
After dinner, we went to the Dow Jones Bar, which I have been waiting to do for years. The bar works almost like a stock market, with the list of drinks on computer monitors that line above the bar. When you order a drink, the price of it goes up, but the price of all the other drinks in that category go down. Every once in a while, there would be a “stock market crash,” and all the prices would drop down for a short period of time. If I start a bar, it will be modeled similarly, but it’ll be a bit more sophisticated and contemporary. I’ll send out the grand opening invites in a decade, give or take a few years, so stay tuned. After a few drinks, I made the wonderful discovery that irish car bombs were 4 euros (this was a set price, not affected by the rest of the ‘stock’), so you should know the rest of the story.
The second day began without the hangover that ensued in Lisbon, so half the day was thankfully not lost. We took the funicular (read: tram) part way up Montjuic Hill, and walked around the museums in the area. The biggest one, Palau Nacional, is a Catalonian museum that, to our dismay, was also under construction. It seems that every good looking piece of architecture in this city is under construction. So sorry if Barcelona doesn’t seem like a good looking place on facebook. Walking up the winding roads, we saw the Olympic stadiums where the ’92 summer Olympics were held. And perched atop the hill was Montjuic Castle, which provided stunning views of both the city and Mediterranean Sea (at least I think that’s the body of water). I should mention that our days in Spain were sun and 60s. Couldn’t have asked for much better. We had planned on taking a gondola from the hill that crossed over Port Vell and to the beach, but it wasn’t running this day due to high winds, a slight hiccup to a great day. Instead, we walked through the marina, where some incredible yachts could be sighted. The one that caught our immediate attention was slightly further away, but a yacht that is roughly 300 feet long is bound to draw attention in a marina, even from a distance. It was too far away to read the name unfortunately. However, another yacht, the Amadeus, at a measly 220 feet, was used by Bono to cruise the world, so that was cool to know. Following the marina, we walked alongside the beaches of Barcelona, enjoying some surf, sand and sun. For those suffering cold winters back in the States, boy… that sucks. Resisting temptation to pop my head into the waterfront casino of Barcelona, we headed back to the hostel to figure out dinner.
We had a nicer dinner off La Rambla at a place called La Fonda. While it was a bit touristy, we enjoyed paella, a popular dish in Spain that more or less contains rice mixed with seafood, a rather tasty dish. Dessert was Crème de Catalona, an amazing pudding. I figured that while we were in Spain, I would have to save some sangria. So we dropped by La Oveja Negra, a bar that served sangria on tap. You should know that the smallest serving is half a liter, so in wine equivalency, over half a bottle. The bar in general was clearly a party bar, and the floor reminded me, for the Purdue-goers or visitors, of Stacks. Except it didn’t have the immediate dirty feel or the smell. But who knows after midnight?
For the last day in Barcelona, we made a trip up to the north-most part of the city to visit Gaudi’s Park. Like the rest of his work, the buildings and structures in the park were very unique and different than traditional buildings you would expect to see in a park. While browsing trinkets that vendors were selling on basically pieces of cloth on the ground, there was a police sighting, and the vendors quickly folded up their sacks, took off running, and scattered. It was a funny sight, except for people who were in mid-transaction and were disappointed they didn’t acquire their wanted items. I figured that since soccer was so big in Spain (and all of Europe, I suppose), I should try to check out a stadium. Naber wasn’t nearly as keen on that, but kindly obliged to tag along. We headed for the FC Barcelona Stadium, big from the outside and seemed cool enough. Too bad admission into an empty stadium was 17 euros. Ridiculous, by my standards. I’m not paying that much to see a field of evenly cut grass. I was a bit bummed out, but don’t try too hard to feel bad for me. A casual sandwich lunch, and we were on the way to Geneva.
Madrid
Our train to Mardrid was a night train which departed at 10:30 pm and arrived the next morning in Madrid around 9 am. Our night train had four bed rooms and we were paired up with two guys from Singapore. Like us, they had just graduated from school (they went to college in Australia) and were traveling all over. For those of you who don’t know, I didn’t, the primary language in Singapore is English so communication was easy. We exchanged our travel stories and we hit the sack as to be rested for our first full day in Madrid.
Once in Madrid the weather was just as wonderful as it had been in Lisbon, sunny and 60’s. We took the metro to our exit for the Hostel and checked in. Our room wasn’t ready so we left our bags and headed out to see the city. We were hungry and tired and Starbucks sounded absolutely delicious so we stopped next door, grabbed a drink, and sat down to plan out our day.
Our first stop was Plaza Mayor which was an 18th century square that was filled with coin and stamp collectors on that particular day. The plaza was filled with tourists but we didn’t stay long as we had set our sights on the Rastro Sunday flea market which sells everything from caged birds, to books, leather goods, and clothes. This was the first market since Asia that we had been cramped and pushed around. It was a slight flashback but we enjoyed the hustle and bustle and all of the colorful vendors.
After the market we were getting hungry quickly so we found the closest restaurant that was of reasonable cost at the time. It was a diner and we sat down upstairs and were served by an older Spanish man who, to say the least, didn’t love his job. We ordered what seemed to be popular items on the menu, ate and quickly continued on with our day.
After lunch we headed down Ronda de Atocha towards the Centro Reina Sofia, the large temporary art museum in Madrid. It was Sunday which was free museum day so we were admitted for free and spent about an hour there. I actually enjoyed this museum more than the Pompidou in Paris so it was a nice contemporary art redemption. Given that it was Sunday we were shuffled out very early because the museum was closing and so we decided to head to the Prado Museum just down the road. When we arrived at the Prado it was around 4:30 and the free admittance didn’t take place until 5:30. Since we didn’t want to wait around we headed back to the hostel to take a shower and clean up. On the way back we strolled through the Puerto del Sol which is considered the heart of the city and which was conveniently close to our hostel.
A quick note on this hostel… We stayed in the RC Miguel Angel which was clean and well located and that’s about it for the positives. We were in a 6 person room and at any given hour one of our 4 other strange roommates would be sleeping. This would ordinarily not be a problem however this particular hostel didn’t have any common room for which to just sit and relax. Wang and I were also the youngest people in the hostel and not to be age discriminatory but if you are 26 or older, it’s time to splurge and put yourself up in hotel for people with fulltime jobs. We were slightly creeped out by all of this so after the second night we weren’t too sad to be leaving. We did have a somewhat normal roommate though. His name was Andy, and he was from Liverpool, taking some time off to come to Madrid for a football (read: soccer) match. It was fun talking to him because he said, “Brilliant!” pretty often, making us think of the old school Guiness commercials.
We took our shower and walked down Grand Via road with all of its shipping and bright lights and ended up at the Palacio de Comunicationes, an extremely beautiful building and a very photo friendly square. After the walked down Grand Via we headed back to Plaza Mayor and had dinner at an outdoor tapas restaurant right in the square. The food was delicious but we were tires so we decided to call it a night and head back to the hostel for some needed rest.
Day 2 began with lunch at Museo de Jamon which was another diner very near our hostel. In Spain they have many restaurants with both a standup bar and then a sit down section where you can eat a meal. It is slightly less expensive to stand and eat at the bar so given we had sat the day previous we decided to stand and eat. Our waiter was very short with us and expressed his disinterest in our inability to speak Spanish with his body language. Once we ordered or food was ordered up quickly and our meals didn’t last long as we were very hungry.
The first place on our day two agenda was the Palacio Real museum. It was the Royal Palace in Madrid and the museum allows for the pubic to walk through several of the buildings 2000+ rooms. We spent quite a lot of time here because the structure truly was breathtaking in both its size and beauty. After the museum we headed to Chueca a very ‘colorful’ part of town. There were extremely cool shops and restaurants lining the streets in this popular area among the youths in Madrid. After walking around Chueca and doing a little window shopping we headed down to the Parque del Retiro. It is Madrid’s equivalent to Central park and is quite beautiful. Wang and I sat down and enjoyed the hot sun and some coffee at an outdoor café on the pond. We spent several hours in this park until it was time to head back and get ready for dinner.
We contacted Patrick Dykes, a fraternity brother currently studying in Madrid, to see if he wanted to grab dinner and a drink. He met us up in Puerto del Sol and we headed back to Chueca for a drink before dinner. Dinner doesn’t really start until around 9 pm in Spain so we had a little time to kill before we grabbed some dinner. After a beer way walked around looking for a place to eat and we stumbled on a little restaurant called Vivares 37. They had a menu del dia that was only 9 euro. The menu del dia is a brilliant Spanish idea that includes choice of a starter from a list of about 5 items, choice of an entrée from a list of about 5 other items, and the inclusion of bread, a drink and dessert all for 9 euro. Our meal was great and extremely filling for 9 euro so we were very satisfied. After dinner we wanted to grab a few more drinks so we headed to the Dubliner to drink some Spanish beer. We threw a few back and we called it a night.
Day 3 started at Café y Te for breakfast and then booked a few hostels for our upcoming stays. Our train to Barcelona was early and we headed to the station.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Lisbon
Once to Lisbon we took the metro to the appropriate stop and walked to the Hostel dragging our suitcases over stone bricked roads. The weather was great compared to Paris with sunny skies and 60+ degrees. Once we arrived at the hostel we left our bags because our room wasn’t ready yet and grabbed a quick bite at a local Portuguese restaurant and had an authentic dish called frango. Frango is a Portugese interpretation of roasted chicken. We went back and were escorted to our room. The accommodations were fantastic. We had an apartment complete with a kitchen, living room, balcony, and a large bedroom with bathroom we shared with two other people. Our roommates were from Chicago and were students traveling from Paris where they were studying abroad. Really nice kids. Wang and I only had a short time in Lisbon so we quickly showered, shaved and headed out for the city. We decided to spend the afternoon in the area of the city called Belem. It was only a short ride on the local bus which dropped us off in the heart of the Belem. A major port on the ocean, Lisbon has a long history of ocean travel and so we took a walk though the local Maritime museum admiring small models of large ships from centuries past and even a few life sized displays. I really enjoyed this museum as it was just full of historical boats and Wang was nice enough to agree to go. We then walked to the Tagus River which feed into the Atlantic right near Belem to tour the Belem Tower which sits right on the river. Once we climbed the 5 stories to see the views of the area we headed back into town for some dinner. The guy at the hostel suggested we stop at a little sandwich place for dinner and just like his suggestion for lunch, he was spot on. The food was great and it was on to the main event… Desert. Belem houses the Jeronimos Monastery which was supposedly the birthplace of the Pastel de Nata. Also know as Pastel de Belems, they are a small custard tart that was created before the 18th century by catholic monks of this monastery. The pastry shop next door called Pasteis de Belém has been around since 1837 and has been serving these delicious treats ever since. Wang and I thought it a crime not to try a few and so we ordered 4 with a glass of Portuguese Port to wash them down. We took the train back and had planned to grab a beer at the hostel bar. Upon check-in each guest receives a free drink ticket so we thought we would use it and maybe grab another after. Well there were no empty tables so we looked like lost kids and these two nice people from one table invited us to sit down at theirs. We ended up making conversation and it turned out they were from the States, Pittsburg to be exact. Luke was interning in Madrid for the past 6 months and Nikki was visiting him for the week. We ended up throwing back a few drinks and having a great time. Nikki asked if we had planned to go out and Wang and I already a few deep and enjoying the company and the weather figured why the hell not. We got changed up and headed out to Bairro Alto, the center of Lisbon’s night life. The streets were lined with bars and people serving cheep drinks and good music. We were drawn to this area like flies to a bug light. And there’s no open container laws here either. People would order their drinks and hang out outside in groups and be loud and drunk. Think Bourbon Street in New Orleans but not as dirty or trashy. We got destroyed drinking Large 1.50 Euro beers and 0.90 Euro shots. We ended up having a great time with Nikki and Luke.
The next day was rough as the hangover was killer. Too tired and to dehydrated, Wang and I decided to take it easy in the morning until our walking tour that afternoon. We again asked for a suggestion for lunch from the hostel and were led to a restaurant serving African cuisine. The food was decent but by no means the best we had all trip. After lunch we just hung out outside round the hostel taking in the sites of the ocean and the sun. When 3 o’clock rolled around it was time for our walking tour and to our slight disappointment it had been cancelled. In light of this change, Wang and I decided to make our own walking tour with the offered assistance of a staffer at the hostel. Our first stop was the Castle of Saint George which was a massive and simple complex situated on the tallest hill in the historic center of the city. We then walked around seeing both the old pre earthquake parts of the city and the newer post earthquake areas of the city. We ended up in the downtown area and walked around admiring large arches and water fountains throughout the downtown area. It was about dinner time so we sat at an outdoor table at a local restaurant. Dinner was quite good but it was time to head back to the hostel to grab our bags and make our way to the train station for our night train to Madrid.
Our stay in Lisbon was short but it was extremely enjoyable. The hostel was better than we ever could have imagined, the weather was killer, the scenery was beautiful and most things were cheap. Overall a great stop but it was time for Spain.
Paris
Anyways, Paris... the first thing is that I am no longer part of the majority, which was a bit sad. I had gotten used to Asians everywhere. And finding Nick in a crowd was like playing Where’s Waldo?, only easier. I also enjoyed feeling tall, and Nick as well. But in Paris, I was just average again, and Nick short. The immediate feel of European culture was like being back at home after Asia. When we had originally planned out our itinerary for this trip, we didn’t think too hard about the dates of travel for each city. Coincidentally, we landed in Paris the morning of February 14th, or the famed Valentine’s Day. Silly holiday, really, but I won’t go into the reasons here. After a snack at Elisa’s apartment, we strolled through her neighborhood and then on over to the Eiffel Tower, less than 15 minutes away. After taking the obligatory pictures, we were presented with a minor challenge. Tucked away in the streets of Paris was a small wine store in which Matt had purchased a bottle of wine for Nick. With Elisa’s working knowledge of the city, a metro hop and a bunch of walking through random streets, we eventually wound up in a small wine shop, where Nick was presented with a bottle of Chateau Griscours Margaux 1982. Quite a nice gesture, given the occasion. The buildings in Paris are quite the sight. Beautiful buildings line almost every street in the city, almost to a point where it’s too perfect. As I’m not an architecture buff, I find it difficult to describe to you the type of buildings, whether they’re Renaissance, Gothic, etc., so words such as beautiful, gorgeous, amazing, and all other synonyms will have to suffice. But I digress. Following our mini treasure hunt for the bottle of wine, we returned to Elisa’s apartment for a breather before a Valentine’s Day dinner. Europe, as those of you who’ve been will know, eats late dinners. Around 8, with Elisa as my dinner date, or maybe it was vice versa, we headed for a restaurant right on the same block as Elisa’s apartment. For purposes of my self-esteem, we’ll call Naber a third wheel for the night. Plus, he already got a nice bottle of wine that day. This restaurant should easily seat 100+ guests. Well, there were about 5 people in there eating when we showed up. Elisa asked for a table for 3, and the seating hostesses and maître ds looked at each other questioning if there was room for us, in the empty restaurant. We eventually were seated, and enjoyed a wonderful dinner accompanied by a drink or two. Even by the time we left, which was close to 9:30, the restaurant was just about to begin its busy hour. Full and exhausted from travel, we called it a night.
Paris, day 2. After about 12 hours of sleep, we decided it would be in our best interest to get up, shower, and see the city. Elisa had a prior engagement with a friend from Northwestern to see some tennis, so we were left to figure out our own day. Breakfast, or perhaps I should call it lunch, as it was close to noon, was a French baguette. They are quite amazing, at a whopping 85 cents, and about two and a half feet long. We set off towards the all-famous Notre Dame, and after 20 minutes of walking, were greeted by the magnificent sight of the cathedral, set on a small island between the split of the river. We walked through it, taking pictures, and continued past Sainte Chapelle, known for its display of stained glass windows. Crossing the river, we walked through the Palais Royal, the area where the Louvre is located, which again, the architectural beauty leaves the tourist awe-struck. We walked on through the Jardin des Tuileries, which is a bit dull given that it’s the winter, and onwards to Place de la Concorde, where a 3300 year old Egyptian obelisk stands. I’ll pause here briefly to talk about people in Paris: They all smoke. A lot. Picture your high class woman, dressed in a large fur coat, a Longchamp (or some other really expensive designer purse) bag hanging from her shoulder, her accessory small dog trotting alongside, walking down the street, but then add a long, thin cigarette between her fingers, taking small puffs at a time to portray her classiness, and there you have your stereotypical upper-class wealthy French woman. But then maybe it’s not so much a stereotype since it seems to apply to a majority. After the Place de la Concorde, we dropped by La Madeleine, a church inside a Greek building with Corinthian columns. Then we headed for Champs Elysees, the avenue for shopping and dining. Before we could make it through the avenue and to Arc de Triomphe, however, Elisa had finished up with her afternoon of champagne and tennis, and we headed back to grab dinner. Dinner was spent in an area called Marais, where we went to a Middle Eastern place for falafel and schwarma. Dinner was capped off by some great gelato with night views of Notre Dame and the Pantheon.
On day 3, I came down with a cold, most likely the result of a combination of the lack of sleep between Bangkok and Paris and the drastic weather change. To make things worse, there was no sun today. Cloudy, dreary, and cold. I tried to fight the cold, and we picked off where we left yesterday at Champs Elysees. Since I’m traveling with Naber, it’ll be no surprise to any of you that we stopped by the showrooms for the three major French auto companies; Citroen, Peugeot, and Renault. We made it up to Arc de Triomphe, then headed back towards the Eiffel Tower, hoping to stop by Palais de Tokyo, a free art museum. To our disappointment, it was closed, so we contented ourselves by having coffee at a café, then climbing the 670 steps up to the second level platform of the Eiffel Tower for some city views (and exercise I suppose). For dinner, we went to a place called La Marina, where we enjoyed French cuisine and beer. Since we decided we loved stairs on this particular day, we climbed up to the Sacre Coeur basilica to enjoy a night view of the city before calling it a day.
Day 4 was one of those travel days on which everything kind of doesn’t work out. I guess we’ve been lucky up to this point where everything has worked out, so a day like this was long overdue. I’m still battling a cold, which seems to have set itself out to make me live in complete misery. The day started off innocently enough, as we met up with Elisa for lunch after sleeping in. She works in Place Vendome, which is ridiculously nice. It’s a large plaza that houses a Cartier and several other similar caliber stores of watches and jewelry. We got lunch at a sandwich place, courtesy of Monitor Group. Well, half of lunch, at least. Thank you Elisa, for the other half. Per Elisa’s suggestion, after she went back to work, we went to Laduree, a famous store for macaroons. And it didn’t disappoint. That would be the last pleasant experience for the day. We had reserved this day for the museums, as it was another cold and dreary day, only to find that the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays. What kind of place chooses Tuesdays to be closed? No worries, right? Just go to another museum. Well, the Pompidou, the museum of contemporary art, happens to be closed every Tuesday as well. So we thought we’d just go to Versailles, a huge palace just 20-25 minutes outside Paris. We caught a train around 3:30 to Versailles, which closes at 5:30. This train happened to stop two stops before Versailles, where we were supposed to catch another train. Well, at this particular station, an announcement came over the loudspeakers, and of course neither of us understood a word, but noticed that every person got off the platform. Asking someone who worked there how we would get to Versailles, she directed us to another platform, and after almost half an hour of waiting, we got on another train, only to end up at the wrong Versailles station. We hustled across the town to get to the palace at 4:55, and were denied admission tickets which are supposed to stop selling at 5. Wonderful day. We had to settle for walking around the palace and through part of the gardens. Vast only begins to describe the acreage of the gardens. Again, save your visit to the gardens for spring, where everything would be much greener. One can easily spend 3 hours in the gardens alone. After the gardens, we got back to Paris, and I was drained from my cold. Got dinner on St. Germain Blvd. Food was delicious once again, so it was rather unfortunate that I could only taste part of it, compliments of the common cold. Turned in for the night with hopes of shaking the cold.
Day 5 was a day trip outside of Paris to the town of Blois (pronounced ‘blue-a’ really fast). Or you could be like me, and call it ‘Blah’ to make things easier. About 2 hours with stops by train, Blois is in the Loire Valley, where chateaus are scattered throughout and along the river. After sandwiches for lunch, we walked around the town, which was quaint and made up of very old but beautiful buildings, and toured the chateau there, defined by a large outdoor spiral staircase. Before I go on, I will mention a little bit about food and drink in Paris. Food is generally just delicious all over the place. But beware of the prices of drinks, and I’m not talking just alcohol. Coke and other sodas cost as much as 4 euro. I didn’t pay much attention to the price the first time we went to a café for lunch, and ended up with a great sandwich for 4.60, and a Coke for 4.10. Doesn’t seem quite right. Oh, and don’t even think the word “refill.” It doesn’t exist. But everything is bottled, and the novelty seems cool enough, for a few days. Anyhow, after Blois, we came back to Paris to actually explore the Pompidou, which in my book, is overrated. Instead, I enjoyed seeing Hotel de Ville. More or less, it’s similar to the Rockefeller Center in New York, complete with a public skating rink, only much more beautiful. We dined in another random restaurant with great food, and headed on over to the Eiffel Tower to get a couple pictures at night before calling it a day.
Day 6 was short, consisting of a morning trip to the Louvre before mentally preparing ourselves for 19 collective hours on the train for Lisbon. The building of the Louvre itself is amazing, and I suppose the art is too, if you’re into that sort of thing. We practically ran through the place, stopping, of course, to see the Mona Lisa. For those who haven’t seen it, if you’re expected this huge beautiful painting of the woman, be prepared to be let down. However, the full wall-sized painting across from the Mona Lisa is much cooler. And for those art history buffs that write a 100-page thesis on a piece such as the Mona Lisa, what the hell do you write about for so long? Get back to me on that one. Anyhow, we caught a metro over to Rue Mouffetard to get a crepe before leaving Paris, another must while in France. It should be a given at this point when I say that it was rather delicious, like everything else we’ve eaten in the city. France is always a must see and must do if an extended trip to Europe is made. However, note that French people are a little cold, and don’t always expect great service. People don’t seem to smile much in this city, which is odd, given that it’s supposed to be this romantic place. We overextended our stay a bit here, which worked out given that I had to recover from a cold and we had to get over jet lag as well. However, we remedied our extended stay by cutting out Avignon from our itinerary and adding on Lisbon. More about that from Naber later! For everyone that knows me, you should know I don’t do anything short when it comes to writing, so I’m not going to apologize for the length of this entry. I do hope you enjoyed it though, and I hope to write about a few more cities on the trip. Most of you should know that pictures are up on my Facebook profile, but if you don’t, feel free to take a look.